Is Your Garage Too Loud?

Whether it’s your band practice, power tools, or a tenant’s noise, an echoey garage can be a real problem for you and your neighbors. I’ll show you the proven, cost-effective ways to control sound based on my years of hands-on garage projects.

We will cover the best sound-absorbing materials for walls and ceilings, how to effectively seal noisy gaps around doors, and the simple upgrades that make the biggest difference for music, workshops, or rental units.

My advice comes from installing these systems in my own workshop and helping clients quiet their garage apartments.

The Big Difference: Stopping Noise vs. Taming Echo

Before you buy a single panel of foam, you need to understand this split. Getting it wrong means wasting time and money.

Soundproofing is about blocking sound waves from traveling through a wall, door, or ceiling to the other side. It stops your band practice from reaching the living room or street noise from entering your workshop. Think of it like the insulated walls of a cooler, which block heat transfer.

Sound absorption is about improving the sound inside the room itself. It soaks up echoes and reverberation, making speech clearer and music less muddy. That’s like the plastic liner inside that same cooler; it doesn’t stop heat, but it manages the moisture inside.

Foam panels you stick on the wall? Those are for absorption. They do almost nothing to stop sound from escaping. For a functional garage, you usually need both strategies, but you must always start with blocking the sound. Sealing leaks and adding mass comes first.

What are the differences between sound absorption and soundproofing?

They tackle two different problems. Absorption panels are lightweight and porous, like a sponge for sound waves bouncing around your room. Soundproofing involves adding dense, heavy materials (like extra drywall) and sealing airtight gaps to prevent sound energy from physically passing through a structure. In my shop, I use absorption to make listening to music nicer while I work, but I used soundproofing techniques on the shared wall with the house to keep the peace.

First Step: Finding and Sealing Every Air Leak

If you remember one thing, make it this: sound travels on air. The most expensive soundproofing wall won’t work if there’s a half-inch gap under your garage door. Sealing air leaks is the single most cost-effective step you can take for sound isolation, especially around your garage door.

Grab a flashlight and inspect these key areas slowly. You’ll be surprised what you find.

How to Perform a Leak Check

1. Garage Door Perimeter: Look at the seal along the top and sides. Can you see daylight? Crouch down and check the threshold seal on the floor. These are often worn flat.
2. Windows and Service Doors: Check the weatherstripping. Close the door on a dollar bill; if you can pull it out easily, the seal is weak.
3. Wall Outlets and Switches: On shared house walls, remove the cover plates. You’ll often feel a draft or see light from the other side.
4. Where Walls Meet: Inspect the seam where the bottom plate of the wall sits on the concrete floor, and where the top plate meets the ceiling. Look for cracks or gaps.
5. Utility Penetrations: Check where plumbing, gas lines, or electrical conduit enter through walls.

My Go-To Sealing Products

Here’s what I keep on my truck for these jobs:

• For Garage Doors & Man Doors: I use heavy-duty rubber weatherstripping. For the sides and top of sectional doors, Frost King’s V-Seal weatherstrip is my standard. It has a rigid spine that pushes firmly against the door for a consistent seal.
• For Gaps and Cracks: Standard silicone or latex caulk can shrink and crack. For sound, you want a non-hardening acoustical caulk. Green Glue Acoustic Sealant is the pro standard. It stays flexible forever, so it won’t crack as the building settles. I use it on bottom plates, top plates, and any small cracks.
• For Outlets and Switches: Outlet gasket kits are cheap and brilliant. They are foam gaskets you install behind the cover plate. I buy the Frost King precut packs because they’re fast. Just turn off the power, remove the plate, add the gasket, and replace the plate. It cuts a major sound flanking path.

How to seal gaps and cracks for better sound isolation?

The method depends on the gap size. For hairline cracks in drywall or between panels, acoustical caulk is your tool. For the larger gap under a door, you need a adjustable door sweep or a quality threshold. For the perimeter of a garage door, replace the entire bulb seal. If you’re addressing a garage door specifically, sealing the gaps around its perimeter is essential for energy efficiency and sound control. Using a proper garage door seal and threshold can make a noticeable difference. My process is clean the surface, apply the sealant or adhesive carefully, and let it cure fully before testing. Never use spray foam for sound gaps on doors or windows; it’s messy and can prevent proper operation. Save that for hidden cavities during construction.

How to Soundproof Garage Walls and Ceilings

Think of soundproofing like building a sandwich. You need multiple layers working together. My approach is always insulation first, then mass. The insulation absorbs sound waves inside the wall cavity, and the heavy mass layer blocks them from getting through.

Choosing and Installing Wall Insulation

Picking the right insulation is your first and most important decision for both temperature and sound control. I have worked with all three common types in garage builds. For effective garage temperature control insulation, the right choice cuts heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. Seal gaps and choose the right layers to keep your workspace comfortable year-round.

Fiberglass batts, like the standard pink stuff from Owens Corning, are the budget starter. They’re good for basic thermal insulation and some sound dampening. You just cut them to fit snugly between the studs with a utility knife. Wear a mask and gloves the fiberglass is itchy.

Rock wool, like Roxul Safe’n’Sound, is my go-to for garage studios. It’s denser than fiberglass, so it absorbs more sound, and it’s naturally fire-resistant. It cuts easily with a serrated bread knife. The cost is higher, but the performance jump is worth it.

Spray foam gives you the best air seal, which is critical for stopping sound leaks. I’ve used kits from Tiger Foam for small gaps. For whole walls, hire a pro. The cost is the highest, but it creates both an insulator and an air barrier in one step.

Here’s a pro tip if your walls are already finished with drywall. You can have a contractor blow dense-packed cellulose into the cavities through small holes. It’s not as good as starting from scratch, but it adds mass and damping that can help a lot.

Adding Mass with Drywall and Special Compounds

Insulation slows sound down, but mass stops it. This is where you make a real difference. For a serious music studio or to keep shop noise from bothering the family, you need heavy, decoupled walls.

The best system I’ve installed is a mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) sandwich. You hang a layer of standard 1/2-inch drywall. Then, you apply a special viscoelastic compound like Green Glue, roll out a sheet of MLV (it’s like a heavy, flexible rubber), and top it with a second layer of drywall. The Green Glue converts sound energy into tiny amounts of heat, and the MLV adds crucial mass.

For a simpler, very effective budget option, skip the MLV. Just use two layers of 5/8-inch drywall with Green Glue compound between them. Use drywall screws long enough to bite into the studs through both layers.

Ceilings are trickier because sound loves to travel through joists. For ceiling soundproofing, resilient channel is a game-changer. You screw these metal channels to the joists, then screw your drywall to the channels. This “decouples” the drywall, preventing sound vibrations from traveling straight into the structure. Combine this with insulation above and two layers of drywall below for a quiet ceiling.

When and How to Use Acoustic Panels and Foam

This is the most common mix-up I see. Acoustic foam and panels do not soundproof; they absorb echo inside the room. You use these after you’ve sealed and insulated your walls. If your garage sounds hollow and reverberant, panels are the fix. For a garage music studio, you’ll want real soundproofing in addition to absorption. The next steps cover garage-specific soundproofing methods and placement.

Pre-made foam panels are cheap and easy to stick up. I find they wear out fast and don’t absorb much low-end sound. For a practice space or home theater, I build my own. I make simple wood frames, fill them with 2-inch thick rock wool slabs, and cover them with acoustically transparent fabric. They look professional and work much better.

Placement matters. Start at the “first reflection points.” Sit where you’ll listen, have a friend slide a mirror along the wall. Wherever you see your speakers in the mirror, put a panel there. For bass buildup, build thicker panels for the corners. To install, I use a cleat system or heavy-duty picture hangers into studs so they’re secure.

How to Soundproof a Garage Door (The Biggest Challenge)

Your garage door is usually a thin, hollow, rattling panel. It’s the weakest link for sound. Improving it involves insulation, sealing, and sometimes replacement. It’s especially important when you want to reduce door noise dings.

The Insulation Kit Upgrade

If you have a standard sectional door, an insulation kit is your first step. I’ve used the polyiso foam board kits from brands like Owens Corning. The kits with tongue-and-groove edges are far easier than cutting your own boards. They interlock for a tight fit and have a reflective facing.

Here’s my process. Clean the inside of each door panel thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry. The adhesive needs a perfectly clean surface. Dry-fit all the foam pieces first. Then, peel and stick, pressing firmly for a minute on each panel. Work from the top section down.

Sealing the Perimeter Like a Pro

An insulated door is useless if sound leaks out the edges. You need a tight seal all around. Replace the old, brittle weather stripping on the top and sides with new, pliable vinyl seals. For the bottom, don’t use the standard rubber flap. Install a double-seal bulb threshold. It has a top bulb that seals against the bottom of the door and a bottom flap that seals against the floor, creating two barriers for sound and drafts.

When to Consider a Door Replacement

For a dedicated studio or rental unit, a new door might be the right answer. Look for an insulated steel door. The key spec is the R-value; aim for R-16 or higher. These doors have a polyurethane foam core that adds great mass and insulation.

The ultimate choice for sound isolation is a solid-core, custom wood door. It’s extremely heavy and dense. I helped a client install one for a podcast studio, and the difference was night and day. It’s a major investment and often requires reinforcing the opener and track, but for true soundproofing, it’s the best barrier you can buy. People often weigh insulated vs traditional garage doors to balance energy savings with noise control. For spaces that double as studios, solid-core wood doors still offer the best soundproofing, while insulated options can provide a practical middle ground.

Managing Floors, Windows, and Ventilation

Once you have the walls and door handled, you need to tackle the remaining weak spots. Sound is like water, it finds the smallest gap.

Reducing Noise Through the Floor

Your strategy here depends entirely on your goal. For a home workshop where you just want to dampen the noise of tools hitting the floor, a simple solution works great.

I’ve laid down 3/4-inch thick rubber horse stall mats from Tractor Supply Co. over an OSB subfloor in my own shop. They’re heavy, durable, and absorb a ton of impact noise from dropped wrenches or a rolling tool chest. Just roll them out, cut them with a sharp utility knife, and butt the edges together.

If you have living space above the garage, like an apartment, you need true isolation. This is where you build a “floating floor.” The goal is to physically disconnect the new floor from the old concrete slab, breaking the path for sound vibration.

How to build a floating floor in a garage for noise reduction? Here are the basic steps I follow:

1. Clean the concrete slab thoroughly and lay down a vapor barrier.
2. Roll out a resilient underlayment designed for sound. I’ve had good results with products like QuietWalk or Regupol. This is a spongy layer that absorbs impact.
3. Build a new subfloor on top, typically using two layers of 5/8″ OSB or plywood. Glue and screw the two layers together, but crucially, do not screw or nail this new subfloor assembly into the concrete slab below. It just sits on the underlayment.
4. Leave a 1/2-inch gap around all edges and fill it with acoustic sealant. This prevents the floor from “short-circuiting” by touching the walls.

Dealing with Windows

Windows are major sound leaks. Single-pane garage windows offer almost no barrier.

How to soundproof garage windows? You have three practical options, from easiest to most effective. We’ll also look at garage soundproofing materials and methods to give you a complete solution.

First, seal it shut. Run a bead of acoustic sealant like Green Glue around the interior window frame to plug all gaps. Then, hang a heavy Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) curtain over it. You can buy these pre-made or sew your own using MLV from a supplier like Soundproof Cow.

The second option is to build an interior plug. Construct a wood frame that fits snugly inside the window opening, fill it with rock wool insulation, and cover it with two layers of drywall. Seal the edges with acoustic caulk. This plug can be removed if you ever need light or emergency egress, but it turns the window into a solid wall when in place.

The third, and most permanent, option is replacement. If you need the light, swap the old sash for laminated glass or a thick acrylic sheet like 1/2″ Lexan. These materials dampen sound much better than standard glass.

Quiet Ventilation is a Must

You cannot and should not make a room completely airtight, especially if you’re working with fumes or running equipment. Stale air and moisture become big problems.

What ventilation options work with soundproofing? You need a system that moves air without letting sound travel through the duct.

My go-to setup uses an inline duct fan, like the quiet models from AC Infinity. But you can’t just mount it in the open. I build a simple plywood box lined with 2-inch thick rock wool around the fan to muffle its motor noise. Use flexible, insulated ducting (the kind with a foil outer layer and internal fiberglass) for the intake and exhaust runs. The insulation inside the duct helps absorb sound. Make sure your exterior vent covers have baffles to block line-of-sight and keep weather out.

Soundproofing Cost and Budget Breakdown

Let’s talk real numbers for a typical two-car garage (about 20’x20′). Costs vary wildly based on materials and labor, but this gives you a frame of reference. Think of it in tiers for building a two-car garage.

What is the cost of soundproofing a garage? Plan your budget around these three levels of performance.

Good (Seal & Insulate): $300 – $800

This is the foundation. You’re stopping the obvious leaks. The cost covers:

• Acoustic caulk, weatherstripping for the service door, and foam gasket seals for all outlets and light switches.
• Fiberglass batt insulation (R-13 or R-19) for the walls and ceiling if they’re bare.
• This tier makes a noticeable difference for casual workshop noise and is a mandatory first step for any project.

Better (Add Mass): $1,500 – $3,500

Now you’re building a real barrier. This adds to the “Good” tier and includes:

• A second layer of 5/8″ drywall on walls and ceiling, installed with a damping compound like Green Glue between the layers.
• A thermal insulation kit for the garage door (like the foam panel inserts from brands like GarageThermal).
• A solid-core or metal exterior door to replace a hollow one.
• A few DIY acoustic panels for the walls to tame echo.

Best (Professional Isolation): $5,000+

This is for near-studio level quiet or legal rental units. It incorporates everything from the first two tiers, plus:

• Resilient channel installed before the final drywall layers to decouple walls.
• A floating floor system as described earlier.
• A dedicated, sound-baffled ventilation system.
• Essentially, building a “room-within-a-room.” This is complex and often needs a contractor.

Always budget for hidden costs: rental fees for a drywall lift, dumpster or haul-away fees for old materials, and specialty tools like a rotary cutter for handling MLV cleanly. Buying a case of Green Glue caulk is cheaper per tube, but it’s a bigger upfront cost. Plan for these things so your project doesn’t stall halfway.

The Gearhead’s Soundproofing Checklist

Gathering the right gear before you start saves trips to the store and a lot of frustration. I’ve found that using purpose-built tools for each step makes the job cleaner and faster.

Tools

You don’t need a full contractor’s shop, but you do need reliable versions of a few key items.

• Sturdy Utility Knife with Heavy-Duty Blades: You’ll be cutting insulation batts and maybe drywall paper. A flimsy knife or a dull blade will tear the material and make a mess. I keep a pack of Olfa blades on hand and change them often.
• Caulk Gun: A standard drip-free gun works. You’ll be using a lot of acoustic sealant, so a comfortable grip matters.
• Heavy-Duty Stapler: For securing insulation facing to studs. A basic handheld stapler often struggles with thicker vapor barriers.
• Drywall Drill/Driver: A cordless model is fine. The key is a drywall dimpler bit attachment. This sets your screw head at the perfect depth every time, which is critical for the next step with resilient channels.
• Rotary Tool (for MLV): If you’re using Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV), cutting it with a knife is tough. A rotary tool with a cutting wheel, like a Dremel, slices through it like butter. Trust me, it’s worth the rental if you don’t own one.
• Tape Measure & Laser Level: For marking your resilient channel lines perfectly straight on the walls and ceiling. A crooked channel will telegraph through the drywall.

Safety Gear

This isn’t optional. These materials are not like wood and paint.

• N95 Masks: You need this for cutting drywall (gypsum dust) and especially for handling rock wool or fiberglass insulation. Those tiny particles are no joke for your lungs. I use a 3M half-face respirator with P100 filters for long sessions.
• Safety Glasses: Staple wires can snap back, and debris falls from above. Clear wrap-around glasses are cheap protection.
• Gloves: A must for rock wool. It’s not as itchy as old fiberglass, but it can still irritate your skin for days. I like the thin but tough Mechanix FastFit gloves for this work.
• Ear Protection: You’re building a quiet room, but the process of building it is loud. Drilling, cutting, and stapling for hours will fatigue you. Simple foam earplugs are fine.

Specialty Hardware

This is where you move from a basic wall to a sound-dampening system. Don’t skip these.

• Resilient Channel Clips: These are the magic. They create a physical break between the drywall and the studs, stopping sound vibrations in their tracks. Follow the manufacturer’s spacing exactly.
• Robertson/Square Drive Screws for Drywall: I switched to these years ago. The #2 square drive bits grab perfectly and don’t “cam out” and strip the screw head like Phillips bits do. You’ll drive hundreds of screws, so this small upgrade saves major annoyance. GRK or Hillman brands are widely available.
• Acoustic Sealant: This is not standard painter’s caulk. It stays permanently flexible, like a soft rubber, to seal gaps that sound travels through. You’ll use it around electrical boxes, between the bottom plate and floor, and at all wall and ceiling joints. I’ve had good results with OSI SC-175 or Green Glue sealant.

DIY Difficulty, Time, and Help Needed

Let’s be realistic about the commitment. This isn’t hanging shelves. It’s a serious weekend project that demands focus.

Ease of Installation Rating: 7/10

The skills aren’t highly complex. You need to measure accurately, cut straight, and follow instructions. The challenge is in the sheer volume of meticulous work and handling bulky materials. If you can paint a room neatly and assemble furniture, you have the base skills. The patience to seal every single gap is what separates a good job from a great one.

Total Active Work Time

For a two-car garage doing the “Better” tier (insulation, channels, two layers of drywall), plan for 3 to 5 full weekends. Here’s how a typical project breaks down:

• Weekend 1: Clear the garage completely. Install insulation in all bays. This is slower than it looks, as you need to cut carefully around wiring and boxes.
• Weekend 2: Mark and install all resilient channels on walls and ceiling. This is a two-person job for the ceiling to hold one end while you fasten the other.
• Weekend 3: Hang the first layer of drywall. This is the most physically demanding part. A drywall lift is a game-changer for the ceiling, even for two people.
• Weekend 4: Apply acoustic sealant at all critical junctions, then hang the second layer of drywall, offsetting the seams from the first layer.
• Weekend 5: Taping, mudding, and sanding the drywall seams. This is its own art form and takes time to dry between coats.

Drying/Waiting Time

You can’t rush the chemistry. Acoustic sealant and compounds like Green Glue need a full 24 to 48 hours to cure properly before you cover them or apply pressure. If you seal a perimeter on Saturday, don’t hang the drywall over it until Sunday afternoon. Factor this into your schedule, or you’ll compromise the performance you paid for.

Helper Required

Some tasks are strictly solo, others are a team lift.

• Solo Work: Sealing gaps, cutting and placing insulation, applying sealant, and even installing resilient channels on walls are all manageable alone.
• Helper Absolutely Needed: Handling and hoisting full 4×12 sheets of drywall, especially to the ceiling. Installing the ceiling resilient channels safely. I would not attempt to lift a sheet of 5/8″ drywall overhead by myself, it’s a great way to get hurt and damage the material. For those big lifts, a reliable friend is worth more than any tool.

Testing Your Work and Avoiding Common Mistakes

Once you’ve put in the work, you need to know if it actually paid off. Then, let’s talk about the pitfalls I’ve watched homeowners fall into, so you can skip them.

How to Test If It Worked

You don’t need a lab to know if your soundproofing is working. I use a two-part test that’s simple and tells you what you need to know.

First, I do a controlled test. I set up a speaker inside the garage and play consistent, bass-heavy music or use a white noise app on a tablet. I use my phone with a sound level meter app like Decibel X to take a reading right outside the garage door, then I go inside, close everything up, and take another reading from the same spot outside.

The numbers from a phone app aren’t lab-grade, but they give you a clear before-and-after comparison to see how many decibels you’ve knocked down.

Second, and more importantly, I do a real-world test. I play music or run a tool at the volume I normally would, then I walk around my property and my neighbor’s property (with permission, of course). I listen for what leaks out. The ultimate test is asking someone else. Have your spouse or a neighbor stand in the house or yard while you’re playing music in the garage. If they say, “Wow, I can barely hear it now,” you’ve succeeded. This directly answers the common question of how to test garage soundproofing effectiveness. If you’re converting the garage into a soundproof home gym or workshop, these checks are essential. They help confirm your space meets noise goals for neighbors.

Top Soundproofing Mistakes I’ve Seen

I’ve fixed a lot of well-intentioned projects. Here are the big errors that waste money and time.

Using only acoustic foam panels is the number one misunderstanding. Those wedge-shaped foam squares are for acoustic *treatment*-they stop echo and reverb inside a room to make it *sound* better. They do almost nothing to prevent sound from escaping. I tried this early on with some Auralex studio foam, thinking my band practice would be contained. It wasn’t. You need mass and seals to block sound.

Ignoring the small holes will ruin your entire project. Sound leaks like water through the tiniest gap. I always keep a bulk pack of DAP Dynaflex 230 sealant on hand. You must meticulously caulk or foam around every electrical outlet box, any pipe or conduit penetration, and most critically, the top plate of the wall where it meets the ceiling deck. I missed a few cable TV line holes once and had to re-open a wall to fix them.

Stuffing the wall cavities with fluffy insulation and calling it a day is a half-measure. Batts like standard fiberglass or rockwool are great for damping sound *within* the wall, but they are not a barrier by themselves. They need the mass of drywall on both sides to work. Think of insulation as the filling in a sound-blocking sandwich; without the bread (drywall), it just falls out.

Creating an airtight seal is the goal, but you must plan for air exchange. If you seal every crack and install a solid, sealed door, you’ve built a mold incubator. I learned this the hard way in a client’s garage that became musty. You need a ventilation strategy. My go-to is installing a simple through-wall vent fan, like a Panasonic WhisperGreen, on a timer to cycle air a few times a day without letting sound blast through a big opening.

Avoiding these common mistakes in garage soundproofing is what separates a pro job from a frustrating do-over.

Garage Soundproofing FAQ: Pro Tips for Lasting Results

What are the best materials for garage wall insulation?

For sound, dense materials win. Rock wool (like Roxul) is my top choice for new walls-it absorbs more sound energy than fiberglass. If walls are already closed up, dense-pack cellulose blown in by a pro is your best retrofit option. Always pair any insulation with a proper air seal and mass layer (like drywall) for true sound blocking.

What are effective methods for ceiling soundproofing in a garage?

The key is decoupling. Install resilient metal channel to the joists, then screw your drywall to the channel. This breaks the direct vibration path. Fill the joist bays above with insulation, and use two layers of 5/8″ drywall with damping compound between them on the ceiling for serious noise control from upstairs units or to contain sound below.

How to soundproof a garage for a rental unit?

Focus on code compliance and durability first. You must address fire-rated assemblies and proper egress. For sound, build a true “room-within-a-room” with decoupled walls, a floating floor, and a solid-core door. Install a sound-baffled, dedicated ventilation system to meet air quality codes. This is not a DIY patch job; consult a contractor familiar with local rental ordinances.

What ventilation options work with soundproofing?

You need a sealed, silenced system. Use a quiet inline fan (like AC Infinity) mounted inside a sound-absorbing box lined with rock wool. Connect it using insulated, flexible ducting with multiple bends to trap sound. Install exterior vent covers with internal baffles. This moves air without creating a direct noise leak, which is non-negotiable for workshops or occupied spaces.

How to reduce echo in a garage?

Echo is an *absorption* problem, solved after soundproofing. Build deep, porous absorbers. My go-to is 4-inch thick rock wool panels in wooden frames covered with acoustically transparent fabric. Place them at primary reflection points (use the mirror trick) and in corners to trap bass. Avoid thin foam tiles; they wear out and only tackle high frequencies, leaving the room boomy.

What are common mistakes in garage soundproofing?

The biggest mistake is confusing absorption foam for soundproofing-it does nothing to stop sound escape. Second is ignoring flanking noise through electrical boxes, ducts, and shared structural elements. Third is creating an airtight room without planned ventilation, leading to moisture and air quality issues. Always seal leaks first, add mass, then manage interior acoustics.

Final Thoughts on a Quieter Garage

The single most important thing you can do is create a complete air seal; sound travels through the tiniest gaps, so meticulous caulking and sealing is more critical than any fancy material. Think of it like this: a small hole in a boat will sink it just as fast as a big one. Your key takeaways are straightforward. Pay special attention to the garage door—it’s a frequent source of drafts. Improving garage door seal insulation can dramatically reduce energy loss and keep noise out.

• Seal every crack, gap, and penetration with acoustic sealant or foam backer rod.
• Add mass to your walls and ceiling with drywall or mass-loaded vinyl to block sound.
• Use fluffy, sound-absorbing insulation in the cavities to soak up noise that does get through.
• Always address the garage door separately with a quality seal kit and consider insulated panels.

References & External Links

• Garage Door Noise Levels: What’s Normal and When to Worry
• Reducing Garage-Door Noise
• Controlling Noise Levels in Underground Car Park | by KSM Group | Medium
• Average db of a band playing in a garage | TalkBass.com