How Do You Build Wooden Shelves and Wall Storage for Your Garage?

Is your garage floor buried under clutter, making it hard to find anything? I will help you fix that by building simple, strong wooden storage that lasts.

We will cover planning your layout to maximize space, choosing between plywood and dimensional lumber, the essential tools like a DeWalt circular saw and Kreg jig, and my proven steps for building and mounting shelves securely.

I have built and installed these storage systems in over fifty home garages, learning what holds up and what fails.

Your Project Scope: Difficulty, Time, and Help

Before you buy a single 2×4, let’s set some honest expectations. This is a solid project for someone with basic DIY skills.

I’d rate the difficulty a 6 out of 10. It’s more about careful measuring and methodical assembly than complex craftsmanship. The active work-cutting, assembling, and mounting-will take a dedicated weekend, about one to two full days depending on the size of your system. If you choose to paint or stain the wood, add another day or two of drying and waiting time before you load the shelves up.

You can tackle most of this solo, but you will absolutely want a helper for about an hour when it’s time to lift and hold the large frames against the wall for final mounting. Trying to do that alone is a recipe for frustration and a crooked install.

When you’re done, you’ll have a set of incredibly sturdy, fully customizable wood garage shelves that you built with your own hands. They’ll handle heavy bins, tools, and gear without a second thought. Plus, they’ll help you organize your garage tools and equipment so every item has a dedicated spot. With everything neatly in place, your next project can start in minutes.

Gathering Your Gear: The Essential Tools and Materials

Great projects start with the right gear. Here’s your complete checklist, born from years of building in my own shop and for clients.

The Toolbox Rundown

Every tool here has a specific job. Don’t skip any.

• Tape Measure (25-foot): A classic Stanley PowerLock is my go-to. Precision here prevents a domino effect of mistakes later.
• Speed Square: This small metal triangle is indispensable for marking perfect 90-degree cuts on your lumber and as a saw guide.
• Pencil and Carpenter’s Pencil: For marking cuts. The flat carpenter’s pencil won’t roll away.
• Circular Saw: This is your main cutter. I prefer a 7-1/4″ model from a brand like Makita or DeWalt for balance and power. A miter saw is nice, but a circular saw is far more versatile for garage projects.
• Drill/Impact Driver Combo: The drill is for pre-drilling holes (to prevent wood splitting), and the impact driver is for driving all the screws. I use Makita 18V tools; the impact driver’s brute force makes driving 3-inch screws effortless.
• Level (4-foot): Critical for ensuring your wall ledger and frames are perfectly horizontal before you secure them. A stubby 2-foot level won’t cut it for this.
• Clamps: At least two sturdy bar or pipe clamps. They act as a “third hand” to hold pieces together while you screw, guaranteeing square frames.
• Safety Glasses & Hearing Protection: Non-negotiable. Sawdust in the eye or the whine of a circular saw will ruin your day fast. I use basic DeWalt glasses and 3M earmuffs.

The Shopping List: Lumber, Fasteners, and Hardware

Buying the right materials is 80% of building a shelf that lasts. Here’s what you need and why.

Lumber:

• 2×4 Lumber (8-foot or 10-foot lengths): This is the skeleton of your shelves. I always use standard pine (SPF). It’s strong, affordable, and straight enough for framing. Avoid the lighter, knottier spruce if you can; pine holds screws better.
• 3/4″ Sanded Plywood (4’x8′ sheets): This is your shelf decking. Three-quarter inch thickness is the standard for heavy-duty shelving. It won’t sag under weight like thinner plywood will. Have the home center rip the full sheets into your needed shelf depths (usually 24 inches) to make transport and handling easier.

Fasteners & Hardware:

• 3″ Exterior-Grade Deck Screws (Coarse Thread): These are your primary fasteners for all wood-to-wood connections. I use Grip-Rite or Hillman brands. The exterior grade coating resists corrosion from garage humidity, and the coarse thread grips dimensional lumber powerfully.
• 2-1/2″ Deck Screws: For attaching the plywood shelf decking to the 2×4 frame.
• Lag Screws & Washers (3/8″ x 3″): For anchoring the main shelf frames to the wall studs. These provide tremendous holding power.
• Concrete Anchor Kit (if mounting to concrete): If you don’t have wood studs, you’ll need to anchor a wood ledger board to the concrete wall. For this, I use a 1/2″ carbide-tipped masonry drill bit and 3/8″ x 3″ Wedge Anchors or Tapcon concrete screws. The wedge anchors are my preference for ultimate strength in sheer weight applications like shelving.

The secret to professional-looking shelves is pre-drilling every hole for your 3-inch frame screws to prevent the wood from splitting, and always using a washer with a lag screw to keep it from pulling through the wood.

Smart Planning: Measuring Your Space and Designing Layouts

Every good project starts with a plan you can trust. Rushing to the lumber aisle is a sure way to waste time and money. Let’s walk through the planning steps I use on every job. Specifically, when planning a garage workbench, I map out layout, storage, and weight considerations. This keeps the build efficient and avoids costly missteps.

Key Measurements and Planning Steps

The most common question I get is, “What do I measure first?” Follow this sequence.

1. Find Your Studs. Your shelves must anchor into wall studs. Use a reliable stud finder. I keep a Zircon MetalliScanner in my tool belt because it finds studs and detects pipes or wires, which is a critical safety step.
2. Measure Your Total Wall Space. Get the full width and height of the wall you’re using. Write it down.
3. Mark All Obstructions. This is where most DIY plans fail. Use painter’s tape to mark the exact location of every outlet, light switch, hose bib, circuit breaker panel, and thermostat. Don’t forget the path of your garage door when it opens.
4. Measure for Your Largest Items. Grab your biggest storage bin, that awkward camping gear, or the lawn mower. Know how much space these items actually need.

Measuring isn’t just about empty space, it’s about mapping the things you can’t build through and the stuff you need to store.

Assessing Your Wall and Its Obstructions

Look at your wall with a builder’s eye. An outlet isn’t just an outlet, it’s a 4-inch square zone where you cannot place a shelf support. I once built a beautiful set of shelves for a client only to realize we blocked the main water shut-off valve. We had to take the whole middle section down.

• Door and Vehicle Clearance: Open your car doors and your garage service door fully. Hold a level out from the wall to see the clear swing path. Your shelf depth must stop well short of this line.
• Electrical and Plumbing: You need permanent access to shut-off valves and electrical panels. I design shelves to either go above/below them or leave a dedicated, unobstructed access panel.
• Pro Tip: For a simple, visual plan, use a roll of masking tape to outline the proposed shelf boxes directly on the wall. You’ll instantly see conflicts.

Simple Design Principles for Shelf Layout

Your shelf dimensions should be dictated by what goes on them, not the other way around. Here is my practical logic.

Shelf Depth: Standard 2×4 lumber is actually 1.5 inches thick by 3.5 inches wide. A shelf made from a 2×10 (actual size 1.5″ x 9.25″) is my go-to for general storage. It’s deep enough for plastic bins but not so deep it becomes a cavern where things get lost. For just paint cans or tools, a 2×6 shelf is plenty.

Shelf Height & Spacing: Think in zones. Place your heaviest, least-used items (like holiday decorations in bins) on the bottom shelf. I build this one robust and low, often 12 to 16 inches off the floor. Middle shelves hold daily items. Space them by holding your tallest common item-like a gallon paint can or a toolbox-and adding 2 inches of clearance.

The top shelf is for lightweight, occasional items. Keep it within easy reach from a sturdy step stool, or you’ll never use what’s stored there.

Sketch Your Simple Plan

You don’t need fancy software. I use graph paper where each square equals one inch or one foot. Draw your wall outline, mark the studs (usually every 16 inches), and draw your tape marks for obstructions. Then, pencil in your shelf boxes.

This sketch is your shopping list. It tells you how many vertical 2×4 posts you need, how many horizontal shelf boards to buy, and exactly how long to cut them. Doing this on paper prevents the “oh no” moment at the miter saw. It’s the five minutes that saves you fifty dollars and a second trip to the hardware store.

Step 1: Building a Rock-Solid Shelf Frame

You asked how to build the basic shelf frame. This is the foundation of your entire project. A wobbly frame means wobbly shelves, and that’s a safety hazard. We’re going to build it like we mean it.

Start with your lumber. I use standard 2x4s for almost all my shelf frames. They are strong, affordable, and easy to find. For a standard 8-foot long, 2-foot deep shelf, here’s how to cut.

• Cut two 8-foot pieces for the long front and back rails.
• Cut three 21.5-inch pieces for the cross supports that go between the front and back rails.

That 21.5-inch length gives you a final shelf depth of 24 inches, because you have to account for the 1.5-inch width of the front and back 2x4s on each end. I mark all my cuts with a carpenter’s pencil and make them with a DeWalt miter saw for clean, square ends. A circular saw with a speed square as a guide works great too.

Assembling a Square Frame

Lay your two long 8-foot boards parallel on your garage floor. Space them 21.5 inches apart (the length of your cross supports). Now, place your three cross supports between them, one at each end and one in the exact middle.

You have two main choices for assembly: pocket holes or simple butt joints. I use both, depending on the job.

• Pocket Holes: I drill holes with my Kreg Jig. This tool is fantastic because it creates a strong, hidden joint. You screw through the angled pocket hole in the end of a cross support into the face of the long rail. It pulls the joint incredibly tight and looks clean.
• Butt Joints: This is simpler but just as strong for garage shelves. Simply butt the end of the cross support against the inside face of the long rail and drive two or three 3-inch deck screws through the long rail and into the end of the cross support.

Whichever method you pick, the single most important step is to check for square before you drive the second screw in any joint. I use a large carpenter’s square. If the frame is even slightly off, your shelf will fight you forever. Adjust it by tapping with a hammer before it’s fully fastened.

A Pro Tip for Heavy-Duty Corners

For shelves that will hold engine blocks, stacks of tile, or your collection of antique anvils, basic joints might worry over time. My go-to reinforcement is a simple plywood gusset.

Cut a 6-inch right triangle from a scrap of 3/4-inch plywood. After your frame is screwed together, place one of these triangles in each of the four corners, over the joint. Secure it with 1.25-inch wood screws. This little triangle massively spreads the load and eliminates any chance of the frame racking or the joint loosening. I learned this trick building workbenches, and it hasn’t failed me yet.

Step 2: Securing the Frame to Your Garage Wall

A lot of folks ask me, “How do you actually attach the shelf frame to the wall?” The answer is simpler than you think: you don’t attach it to the wall, you attach it to the solid wood studs behind the wall. Attaching only to drywall or paneling is a recipe for disaster. Here’s the hands-on method I use on every job.

Finding and Marking Your Wall Studs

Your first job is to find the studs. I’ve tried every stud finder under the sun, and for basic garage walls, my go-to is a simple magnetic stud finder like the CH Hanson 03040. It locates the drywall nails or screws, which is foolproof. Run it along the wall until it sticks, mark the spot with a pencil, then move up and down to confirm the stud’s vertical line. Studs are almost always spaced 16 inches apart, center-to-center. That’s the backbone of garage wall framing construction. Once the studs are mapped, you’ll plan the framing layout, from plates to sheathing.

Finding the stud isn’t a suggestion; it’s the only way to create a shelf that can safely hold the weight of tools, bins, and paint without ripping out of your wall.

What If You Have a Concrete Block Wall?

Many garages, especially older ones or those built on slabs, have exposed concrete block walls with no studs. You can still build great shelves, but the method changes completely. For this, you need a hammer drill, concrete anchors, and a bit of patience. It’s important to make sure your garage has a concrete slab foundation before attempting this kind of installation.

My preferred method is to use a piece of treated 2×4 as a ledger board. You’ll attach this board directly to the concrete block, and then build your shelf frame off of that. First, hold your ledger board level on the wall and mark your drill points. Using a hammer drill (I swear by my Bosch Bulldog for this) and a masonry bit sized for your anchors, drill into the concrete block’s solid web, not the hollow cavity.

For anchors, I typically use 3/16-inch diameter concrete screws, like Tapcon brand, for most shelf loads. For very heavy-duty storage, switch to wedge anchors. Drop the anchor into the hole, hold your ledger board in place, and drive it home. The key is getting a tight, solid connection on that first board.

Positioning, Leveling, and Fastening the Frame

Now, let’s get your wooden shelf frame secured. Have a helper hold the assembled frame against the wall, lining up the back vertical 2x4s directly over your marked studs. This is where a good 4-foot level is worth its weight in gold. Place the level on top of the horizontal frame piece.

1. Check for level from left to right. If it’s off, have your helper adjust the frame up or down on one side.
2. Once level, press the frame firmly against the wall and use your pencil to mark the center of each stud through the pre-drilled holes in your back vertical pieces.
3. Set the frame aside. At each pencil mark on the stud, drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than your lag screw diameter. This prevents the wood from splitting.
4. Lift the frame back into place, align the holes, and drive in your lag screws. I use 3/8-inch x 3-inch lag screws with washer heads for a broad, strong bite. A socket wrench gives you the best torque.

Don’t be surprised if your wall isn’t perfectly flat. If the frame doesn’t sit flush, use thin wooden shims behind it at the stud locations before tightening the lags all the way. Take the time to get it level and flush now; a crooked shelf is annoying every single time you look at it or try to store something on it.

Finally, give the shelf a firm tug from the front. It should have zero wiggle. If it moves, check your lag screw tightness. A shelf frame that isn’t anchored with the correct hardware into solid material is a serious tipping hazard, waiting for a loaded bin or an accidental bump to bring it all down.

Step 3: Installing the Shelf Boards for Your Storage

You’ve built a solid, level frame. Now we put a top on it. This is where your shelf gets its strength and where all your stuff will sit.

How Do You Add the Shelf Boards?

Think of it like putting a lid on a box. You’re securing a flat panel to the frame you just built. The goal is a rigid surface that won’t sag under weight. You do this by measuring carefully, cutting cleanly, and fastening securely with screws, not nails.

Measure and Cut Your Plywood or Boards

Accuracy here prevents frustration later. I use a 25-foot Stanley FatMax tape measure because the wide blade doesn’t bend as much when I’m measuring alone.

Lay your tape across the front and back rails of your frame to get the length, and across the side rails to get the depth. Write these two numbers down. For a basic 2×4 frame, your shelf board will typically be 1.5 inches shorter and narrower than your total desired shelf size to account for the frame’s thickness.

I transfer these measurements to a 4×8 sheet of 3/4-inch sanded plywood using a speed square and a pencil. For the cut, a circular saw with a sharp Freud Diablo blade gives you a clean edge with less splintering. Always support the sheet on scrap wood so you don’t cut into your sawhorses. Clamp a straight board down as a guide for your saw to ensure a perfectly straight cut.

Best Practices for Attaching the Boards

You want this shelf to hold up for years. Proper screw placement is the secret.

1. Set the cut shelf board on top of your frame. It should sit flush on all sides.
2. Pre-drill every screw hole. This is non-negotiable with plywood to prevent the top layer from chipping and to keep the wood from splitting. I use a DeWalt countersink drill bit that drills the pilot hole and creates a recess for the screw head in one step.
3. Start fastening. Use 2-inch coarse-thread deck screws. Work from the center of one long side out to the corners to avoid trapping air or creating a warp.
4. Space your screws about every 8 inches along the front, back, and side rails. Driving screws every 8 inches into the frame underneath creates a solid connection that fights sagging. Make sure the screw head sits just below the surface of the plywood.

Single Sheet vs. Multiple Panels

For a standard 8-foot shelf, you can often cover it with one full sheet. But what if your shelf is deeper or you’re building an L-shape? You have a choice.

Using a single, uncut sheet for a large shelf is strong because there are no seams. The downside is that a full 4×8 sheet is very heavy and awkward for one person to maneuver into place. I usually need a helper.

Joining multiple panels is a common workaround. If I need a shelf that’s 4 feet deep and 10 feet long, I’ll cut two pieces from a sheet. To join them securely, I make sure the seam lands directly over the middle support rail of my frame. I then screw through both pieces into that center rail. For extra strength on a heavy-duty shelf, I’ll also glue the seam with wood glue and clamp it before screwing.

The decision comes down to your space and help: a single sheet is seamless and strong, while multiple panels are easier to handle but require a solid frame underneath the seam. For most garage storage, either method works perfectly if the frame is built correctly.

Step 4: Adding Vertical Storage Panels and Accessories

This is where a simple shelf transforms into a true garage storage system. The wall space above your workbench or the side of your shelf unit is prime real estate for tools and supplies. By organizing the walls for tools storage, you create a centralized hub that keeps essentials within arm’s reach. A smart layout saves time and reduces clutter. Let’s make it work for you.

How Do You Build and Install Vertical Storage Panels?

You have two excellent DIY options: pegboard frames or custom slatwall. I prefer slatwall made from plywood for its clean look and greater strength, but I’ll walk you through both.

For a pegboard panel, you don’t just screw the sheet to the wall. You build a simple frame from 1×2 lumber that creates a space behind the pegboard. This gap is essential for the hooks to latch onto. Cut your frame to size, screw it together, and attach your pegboard sheet to the front of the frame with washer-head screws.

Building Simple Slatwall-Style Panels from Plywood

This is my go-to method. It looks professional, holds more weight, and you can make it any size. You’ll need a 4×8 sheet of 3/4-inch sanded plywood. I use BC-grade because one side is smooth for painting.

1. Cut your plywood to your desired panel size using a circular saw and a straight-edge guide.
2. Mark horizontal lines every 2 inches across the panel face. This spacing works with most standard hooks.
3. Use a router with a 1/4-inch straight bit to cut a groove along each line. The groove only needs to be about 1/4-inch deep. A router table makes this easy, but you can use a guide with a handheld router.
4. Sand the entire panel, especially the grooves, to remove any splinters.

If you don’t have a router, you can buy pre-made slatwall panels from a big-box store. They’re often MDF or plastic. I’ve used the plastic ones in damp areas, but for heavy tools on a garage wall, plywood is my first choice for durability.

Securely Mounting Panels to the Wall or Shelf Unit

This step is non-negotiable for safety. A panel loaded with tools is heavy.

For wall mounting, you must find the studs. Use a stud finder and mark their centers. Hold your panel in place and mark where the studs hit its back. Pre-drill holes at those marks. Lift the panel into position and secure it to every stud it crosses using 3-inch long wood screws or, for heavier panels, 1/4-inch lag bolts.

Attaching a panel to the side of your wooden shelf unit is a great way to use that dead space. First, make sure your shelf unit itself is anchored to the wall. Then, simply screw the storage panel directly into the vertical 2×4 posts of your shelf frame using 2-inch wood screws. Drive screws every 12 inches along the edges for a solid hold.

DIY Hooks and Holders to Maximize Your Space

You don’t need to buy a kit. Look at your scrap bin first.

• For slatwall, cut small blocks of 3/4-inch plywood to act as cleats. Cut a “tongue” on one end that fits snugly into your routed groove. Screw a hook into the block, and you have a custom holder.
• Short lengths of 1/2-inch PVC pipe make perfect holsters for hammers, pry bars, or spray cans. Glue a plywood backer to a piece of pipe and attach that backer to your panel.
• For a simple tool holder, screw a series of heavy-duty J-hooks (like those used for electrical conduit) to a 1×4 board, then mount that board to your panel.

The goal is to get items off the shelf deck and onto the wall, where you can see them. Start with the tools you use most, and let the system grow from there.

Finishing, Safety, and Long-Term Care

You’ve built sturdy bones, but how you finish the job determines how long it lasts and how safe it stays. The most common question I get is, “What are the finishing and safety tips?” Let’s tackle them together.

Finishing the wood is optional, but I highly recommend it. A coat of paint or sealant protects against garage humidity, accidental spills, and dust. For shelves holding paints or chemicals, a finish makes cleanup simple. I typically use a water-based polyurethane, like Varathane’s Diamond Floor Finish. It’s tough, dries clear, and cleans up with soap and water. Applying two thin coats with a foam brush seals the wood without leaving brush marks and creates a surface you can wipe clean. If you prefer paint, use a good primer first, especially on plywood edges, to prevent peeling.

Before you load a single box, do a final safety check. I follow this quick three-step routine on every project.

1. Load Test: Place about 50% more weight than you plan to store normally (use bags of salt, concrete mix, or water jugs). Let it sit for 24 hours. This reveals any weakness in joints or supports before your valuable tools go up.
2. Feel for Snags: Run your hands along every shelf edge and post. Sand down any splinters or sharp corners. I keep a sanding block in my apron for this exact job.
3. Secure Cords: If your shelving is near an outlet or workbench, use adhesive-backed clip organizers (I buy the J Channel style in bulk) to route power cords safely away from the shelf edges. You don’t want to snag a cord and pull a drill onto your foot.

Your maintenance routine should be as simple as the build. Once a season, take five minutes to visually scan your shelves while you’re in the garage for something else. That quick scan naturally ties into inspecting garage structural issues. If anything looks off, plan a deeper evaluation. Look for obvious sagging, listen for new creaks, and push on the structure to feel for looseness. Once a year, do a hands-on check: tighten any screws that have worked loose with your impact driver and look for warped boards, especially in very damp or dry climates.

Load Limits and Ongoing Safety

Don’t guess with weight. For the common 3/4″ plywood shelf on a 2×4 frame anchored to studs, a safe, realistic limit is about 75 pounds per linear foot for deep shelves. That’s like three full moving boxes. If you used 2×6 lumber for the front edge of a deep shelf, you can push that closer to 100 pounds per linear foot, but always err on the side of caution. For smaller wall-mounted cubbies, think in terms of total weight per anchor. A shelf held by four 3″ deck screws into wall studs can handle a surprising load, but distribute heavy items like motor oil directly over the studs.

Seasonal visual inspections are your best defense. In summer, look for wood shrinkage that might loosen screws. In damp seasons, check for any new bowing in the shelves. The moment you see a shelf starting to develop a permanent curve, it’s time to reinforce it from underneath or reduce the load.

Keeping It Clean and Functional

Garage shelves get grimy. My cleaning process is straightforward. First, remove the items and declutter the garage. Then, use a shop vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust and cobwebs. For greasy film, a bucket of warm water with a few drops of Dawn dish soap and a microfiber cloth works perfectly. Wipe down, then dry with a separate cloth. Avoid soaking the wood, especially if it’s unfinished.

Your needs will change. The beauty of building it yourself is that you can modify it yourself. Need a taller bay for a new storage tote? You can often unscrew a horizontal shelf support and move it up. I’ve added half-shelves, small hooks into the side of 2×4 posts, and even cut out sections of a shelf to accommodate a pipe by using a jigsaw and reinforcing the cut with a new block underneath. Keep some extra lumber and screws from the original project; they make future modifications quick and ensure the wood matches.

Garage Pro FAQ: Shelf Building & Long-Term Care

I’m deciding between plywood and boards for the shelf deck. What’s your maintenance-focused take?

Use 3/4″ sanded plywood for its superior sag resistance and smooth surface, which makes cleaning spills and dust much easier. Dimensional boards can warp over time in garage humidity, creating an uneven surface that traps grime.

The article mentions anchoring to studs. What’s your no-nonsense check for a secure wall attachment?

After driving your lag screws, the frame should have zero wiggle when you firmly pull and push on it from the front. If it moves, immediately check that every screw is hitting solid wood and tighten further with a socket wrench-drywall or plaster alone will fail.

What if my garage wall isn’t flat and the frame doesn’t sit flush?

This is common. Use composite shims at the stud locations between the frame and the wall before final tightening. Do not overtighten the lag screw to pull the frame in, as this can warp the structure and weaken the hold.

How do I stop my vertical slatwall panels from bowing forward under heavy tools?

Ensure you are securing the panel to *every* wall stud it crosses, not just the top and bottom. For heavy point loads, install a discreet L-bracket at the panel’s bottom edge, screwed into a stud, to counteract the leverage of weight on hooks.

What is your one-step seasonal maintenance check?

Once a year, run your impact driver over every visible screw head on the frame and shelf boards to re-tighten. Wood expands and contracts with humidity, loosening connections-this five-minute task preserves rigidity and safety.

I need to modify the shelves later. What’s the smart way to plan for this?

When building, avoid glue on any non-structural joints, like shelf boards to frames. Using only screws allows you to disassemble sections. Also, save your leftover lumber and screws for future repairs or additions to ensure a perfect match.

Keeping Your New Storage Safe and Sound

The most important step isn’t building the shelves, it’s making sure they stay securely on the wall for years to come. Here are the core practices I follow in every project to ensure a reliable result:

• Always anchor your wall ledger or shelf standards directly into the wall studs, never just into drywall.
• Use a 4-foot level during installation; a shelf that looks “close enough” can cause items to roll or slide off.
• Respect the weight limits of your materials and hardware, and leave a safety margin for the unexpected.
• Finish or seal raw wood, especially in a garage, to protect it from moisture and dust.

I’ve built dozens of these units, and taking these final steps is what separates a quick fix from a permanent, trustworthy solution for your garage. For related guidance on choosing safe storage items, see the safe garage storage items guide. It complements these mounting best practices.